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Ford timing belt tensioner tool9/24/2023 ![]() If it's really close, bump then engine until it lines up perfect. Then check the one up top on the cam pulley. Turn the crank over with a long 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar until the mark on the pulley lines up with the one on the timing cover. Now on the LHS, the belt was broke, so I had to get the crank lined up right. I don't even worry about if the #1 cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke if the car runs okay and you're just replacing the belt, as long as the marks in the new belt line up with the old one. I then use a breaker bar to tighten the slack and place the tensioner in there. Route the belt and get the other dot lined up on the crank. ![]() Once you have the mark on the belt lined up with the dot, put the squeeze clamp on there. A friend showed me that trick while putting a timing belt in a Chrysler LHS I used to have. I didn't use the black paper clips, I used spring clamps, I've got several in different sizes. Mark the edge of the old belt where the dots are, then you can count the teeth to confirm when you transfer the marks to the new belt Luckily I had marked the old belt with white out (a paint pen works as well). I replaced the timing belt on a Mercury Villager (same as Nissan Quest) and the timing belt I bought had timing marks on it, the problem is one of the marks was a few teeth off. Yeah, I suggest white out and spring clips as well. Retighten it snugly with a 1/2 drive ratchet and breaker bar when done, don't over tighten it, it won't come loose. The clutch will not hold the engine, I had to put a 24 inch pipe wrench on the crank damper after I removed the pulleys (damper is solid iron, no rubber in it) and then I had to use a 4 ft cheater bar! I m told this is normal for the first time coming off. Hardest part is loosening the crank center bolt, it is super tight the first time. The belt is cheap, about $13, you probably should replace the idler pulley and bracket, about $35. Rotate it down and to your left (vehicles right) and while holding it there, take a rachet and socket and re-tighen the pivot bolt, holding it in a position where the belt can be removed or installed. The pry bar will hook under the pivot for the spring loaded idler and you push againist the toothed surface of the belt where it wraps around the idler. loosen the idler pivot bolt a turn or so. The tensioner is spring loaded againist the timing belt and all you need is a short, flat ended prybar. I have done the timing belt on my 2.3 engine in my '91 Ranger, about three times now (every 60,000 mi), it is the same engine as the 2.5 in the later trucks. You don't say what motor, I don't think any of the six cylinder engines in this truck have belts however.
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